HALF STANDARD Must not be less than 18” (457mm) or more than 30” (762mm) from soil level to first branch FULL STANDARD Must not be less than 30” (762mm) or more than 42” (1067mm) from soil level to first branch.

Full and half standards

HOW TO GROW STANDARDS Much has been written about the growing of standard fuchsias since this booklet was first printed. However as stated many times before, not much has changed and I still use my tried and tested methods of growing standards. It cannot be over stressed regarding the importance of growing standards from the correct cultivars. So much time can be wasted in trying to coax the wrong cultivar into a standard form. With so many cultivars available it is impossible to list them all, but you can try with confidence any of the tried and tested ones listed later. When looking for a suitable cutting to produce a standard, it is advisable to be extra particular and choose a cutting if possible that has three leaves at the node instead of the usual two. This will give you one third more size than the two leaf cutting and will not only make the plant more symmetrical, it will also give you a third more flowers (this can in fact be applied to the growing of Bush and Shrub plants also).

Select a good upright growing variety

HOW TO GROW A STANDARD Much has been written about the growing of standard fuchsias since this booklet was first printed. However as stated many times before, not much has changed and I still use my tried and tested methods of growing standards. It cannot be over stressed regarding the importance of growing standards from the correct cultivars. So much time can be wasted in trying to coax the wrong cultivar into a standard form. With so many cultivars available it is impossible to list them all, but you can try with confidence any of the tried and tested ones listed later. When looking for a suitable cutting to produce a standard, it is advisable to be extra particular and choose a cutting if possible that has three leaves at the node instead of the usual two. This will give you one third more size than the two leaf cutting and will not only make the plant more symmetrical, it will also give you a third more flowers (this can in fact be applied to the growing of Bush and Shrub plants also). The cutting can be rooted by the method described earlier and once it is growing away it should be potted into a 31/2" pot. Under no circumstances should the cutting be allowed to suffer any form of ‘check’ (a check is when the plant has a shock and this disturbs the normal growing patter). This ‘check’ could be in the form of under or over watering, too high or too low temperature and roots being restricted in too small a pot. If you see the small buds that appear in the growing tip you can forget about the whip (a ‘whip’ for our purposes basically means a single stem cutting without side shoots) making any more height. This is one of the reasons for leaving a few side shoots on the ‘whip’ and if possible you should make the final stop there. When you have completed the initial potting up and the cutting continues on its upward growth, you should then put in a short stake. An 18" flower stick cut into two is ideal for this purpose. This should be placed next to the plant being very careful not to damage the fragile root

Insert a cane and tie in loosely

The cutting can be rooted by the method described earlier and once it is growing away it should be potted into a 31/2" pot. Under no circumstances should the cutting be allowed to suffer any form of ‘check’ (a check is when the plant has a shock and this disturbs the normal growing patter). This ‘check’ could be in the form of under or over watering, too high or too low temperature and roots being restricted in too small a pot. If you see the small buds that appear in the growing tip you can forget about the whip (a ‘whip’ for our purposes basically means a single stem cutting without side shoots) making any more height. This is one of the reasons for leaving a few side shoots on the ‘whip’ and if possible you should make the final stop there. When you have completed the initial potting up and the cutting continues on its upward growth, you should then put in a short stake. An 18" flower stick cut into two is ideal for this purpose. This should be placed next to the plant being very careful not to damage the fragile root system.

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It is a good idea to sharpen the stake first before inserting it. The ‘whip’ should then be tied, not too tightly, to the cane, firstly securing the twine, string etc to the cane then tying loosely around the stem. You should decide on the ultimate height of the standard well before the ‘whip’ reaches anywhere near this as you will need to ensure you have enough side shoots to form the head of the standard. It is also a good idea to retain a couple of the top side shoots as described earlier as a safety measure just in case the ‘whip’ does receive a check, at least you will then be able to salvage something out of it, even if it does mean that the standard is somewhat shorter than anticipated. You can use more than one cane to help stabilise the stem, however, if you are intending to exhibit the plant you must remove all but one support when you show it.

... a quarter standard should have four or five side shoots

This tying in should be done at least every 2 inches some successful growers tie every inch. It is also very important that the plant is turned ¼ turn every couple of days to counteract the effect of phototropism (that simply means that the plant will grow towards the strongest light). The potting on and replacement of the cane with a longer one will need to be carried out as required. During the growing period of the whip, some side shoots are retained as a safety measure with all the leaves left on to draw the food up the stem and maintain healthy growth. Once the final height that is required is achieved, the plant is then stopped in the usual way. The head will now begin to form in the same way as it would in a bush or shrub plant. The leaves are still left on the stem and if they do not fall naturally they can be left on until a couple of weeks before the plant is placed on display at commencement of flowering. The number of side shoots is always dependant upon the cultivars being used, whether they short or long jointed (the distance on the stem between the nodes). Look for a small flowered, short jointed cultivar for the mini and quarter standards and a self branching strong upright grower for the half and full standards.

...w ith six being left on for both full and half standards.